Style and Value with Wainscoting Installation

by Don Miller

Wainscoting is a term used to describe the application of decorative wall paneling that dates back to 16th century England when homeowners would install it to the lower portion of stone walls to help block out cold and dampness. Initially, wainscoting panels were 42 to 58 inches tall but in the 20th century, the height was increased to between 60 and 72 inches. However, today’s homeowners can choose panels of any of these heights. Wood remains the most popular material but it is also available in burlap, line, and grass cloth, as well as pressboard, hardwood veneer, plastic, tin, and copper.

The three primary types of wainscoting panels include flat, raised, and bead board, each unique. Flat panels provide a simple and clean look often seen in Mission or Arts and Crafts style homes, raised panels measure between 30 and 40 inches tall and have a traditional colonial appearance, and bead board is a vertical application with a cottage look and fell. Regardless of the height, material, or type of wainscoting, the installation process makes a great do-it-yourself project.

Start by measuring the wall at each location where a wainscoting panel would be installed. Since most homes have uneven floors or walls that are not uniform in size, this is critical. The goal is to measure so the top line of the panels would be at the same height, even if you end up with different measurements for each panel location. After measuring one section, place a piece of tape at the top line, marking it with a number. Then, each panel would be cut according to the measurement for each section, followed by placing a piece of blue tape on the back of the panel to coordinate with the number for that section of wall.

If you decide to work with oak, because sheets of oak measure 4 x 8 feet, one sheet would equal two panels of wainscoting whereas for all other materials, one sheet would be equal to one panel. Additionally, wood needs to be stained or painted after being cut. For staining, apply a stain conditioner first, allowing the stain to absorb better and more evenly. Once the stain treatment has dried, typically 20 minutes, use a medium roller to apply the stain, which would distribute the stain best and without drips.

For painting, quality primer/sealer would need to be applied, allowing the paint to stick better. After drying, the primer/sealer would be sanded with fine sandpaper, and then wiped down with tack cloth to remove any residue. Then with a medium roller, apply the paint. Once dried, the panels would be sanded again, wiped off, and another coat of paint applied. Usually two coats of paint would suffice, but more could be added if necessary.

Once dried, apply construction adhesive to the back of the panel. Working with one panel at a time, press the panel onto the wall in the coordinating location, pressing firmly while making sure the top edge lines up to the horizontal mark you taped on the wall. Once in place, brad nails would be used anywhere there are stiles so the nails would not show.

To work around an electrical outlet, remove the outlet cover and then measure over the edge of the first panel and from top and bottom of the outlet box. Turn the house power off at the breaker, remove the screws holding the outlet box in place, and with a jig saw, cut a hole in the panel. Pull the outlet box away from the wall slightly to allow the panel to fit snugly against the wall. Next, install the wainscoting panel, tighten the screws of the outlet box, and reattach the existing or a new cover.

Please note that you want to cut the panels to accommodate outlet boxes as you go and not ahead of time. If you were to cut the holes ahead of time, as you go to install the panel on the section where the outlet box is located, you would notice that the installation of the previous panel had changed the way the next panel would line up. In other words, a precut hole would likely not match up to the outlet box.

With all the wainscoting panels in place, measure and cut the cap molding and baseboards with a circular or hand saw, making sure where the pieces meet in the corner a 45-degree angle has been included. The cap molding would then be positioned on top of the wainscoting panels and baseboards installed. Any difference in measurement of the panels would be hidden with the cap and baseboard so with all the panels installed the outcome would be a uniform and professional appearance. To finish, use a small amount of caulk to cover nail holes and seams, and then use stain or paint to touch up the panels.

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